About
Inspired by François-Hubert Drouais’s portrait ‘Madame de Pompadour at her Tambour Frame’, this three-day embroidery course invites you to delve into the art of tambour beading, a couture technique that gained prominence in 18th-century France. Guided by expert tutor Lucy Martin from London’s renowned embroidery house, Hand & Lock, and drawing from the floral motifs adorning Madame de Pompadour's dress, the course combines fabric painting with intricate stitching and beadwork techniques to recreate the elegance of the era.
Tambour beading involves using a specialised hook to attach beads or sequins to fabric, creating a chain stitch from the underside. This method, rooted in 16th- and 17th-century India and China, was embraced by European fashion houses, evolving into what is known today as Lunéville embroidery. Throughout the three-day summer school, in addition to hands-on studio work, you will also learn from National Gallery experts and guest lecturers on the artistic and cultural context of Madame de Pompadour and 18th-century fashion in the galleries and from archival pieces in Hand & Lock’s collection.
All materials are provided for the summer school, and you will take your embroidered pieces home. Handouts with extra resources are provided as part of the summer school. All sessions take place in our brand new, state-of-the-art Clore Art Studio in our Roden Centre for Creative Learning.
Learn more about our other Summer Schools in the Clore Art Studio.
About Hand & Lock
Founded in 1767, Hand & Lock is London’s oldest embroidery house, creating bespoke embellishment for couture fashion houses, the Royal Family, the military and high-profile clients around the world. Their studio blends centuries-old techniques with contemporary design, and their School for Embroidery trains thousands of students each year in specialist hand embroidery.
Day 1: Framing up and applying silk paints

On Day 1, we will begin by learning the Parisian method of framing up a couture embroidery frame. This technique ensures the fabric is taut like a drum, as 'tambour' refers to this very tension. Once the frame is prepared, we will transfer our designs onto the fabric, setting up areas for both our sample and the final embroidery piece. The focus will then shift to fabric painting, where we will apply silk paints to create a base colour for our design.
Before applying the techniques to the final piece, there will be time to practise on the designated sample area, ensuring a smooth transition to the main design.
We will also take a trip to the galleries to enjoy a guest lecture by art historian and Gallery Educator Fiona Alderton to learn more about Madame du Pompadour.
Day 2: Mastering tambour hooking and beading

Day 2 will focus on mastering the tambour hook. We will learn how to use the hook to create a chain stitch, the essential stitch for tambour beading. Afterwards, we will prepare our beads by transferring them onto Fil à Gant thread. With the beads prepared, we will apply them to the fabric's underside using the tambour technique, producing intricate, delicate beaded patterns.
We will also experiment with interspersing metallic and matte threads with the beads, adding visual depth to the design.
Art and fashion historian Jacqui Ansell will also join the session to contextualise the history of tambour beading with the art and fashion of the 18th century.
Day 3: Sequins, bugle beads, and couture finishing

On Day 3, the focus will shift to working with sequins and bugle beads. We will learn how to attach these embellishments to the fabric using the tambour technique. The day will also cover couture finishing methods, ensuring that the piece is carefully completed and secure.
The course will end with a demonstration on how to remove the embroidery from the frame, leaving you with a finished piece to take home.
Your Tutor
Lucy Martin is the Head of Education at Hand & Lock, where she leads the Hand & Lock Diploma and various embroidery workshops. With expertise in goldwork, silk shading, beading and couture embroidery, Lucy is passionate about making traditional techniques accessible to all levels of learners.
Her teaching approach combines creativity with a strong technical foundation, empowering students to build confidence and skill. Lucy’s work with Hand & Lock includes high-profile projects for couture houses and the Royal Family, blending traditional craftsmanship with contemporary design.



Embroidering elegance: Tambour beading with Hand & Lock
Tickets
This event is open for Members priority booking until Friday, 23 May 2025. Members please sign in to book.
Standard: £540
Concessions: £486
Please book a ticket to attend this course which will take place in the Roden Centre for Creative Learning.
Tickets include entry to the National Gallery. Please arrive in good time to access the building and find the event.
Bookings close ten-minutes before the event.
Concessions are for full-time students, jobseekers, and disabled adults.